Home > How To > Bridles Bridles vary from steel wire to pressed sheet metal, to dyneema. The wire bridles are very simple but do have the tenancy to snap at the bend when they get older. Which can be quite a nasty experience for the fingers. This is the one of the reasons that Dyneema bridles are very common. Here's a few commonly used bridles. The first group are articulated. This is the classic articulated wishbone by Omer, a lot of european brands have something very similar. Here we have one by Sporasub (Omersub) which has two different variaties, one for notched spears and one for sharkfin spears. This one is articulated but designed to fitted inside the rubbers with a constrictor knot. Here we have Beuchat wide wishbone which was designed to give more room for the fingers when loading, no moving parts which I think is a good thing. Then we have the poor mans bridle which are not that bad but sometime the stainless gets brittle and breaks. These are different forms of Dyneema bridles. The first is made for screw in rubbers or slings. Then this bridle is used for rap around rubbers, the brass ends are inserted into the rubbers & then tied with a constrictor knot. These Stainless ends are inserted into the rubber ends with the Dyneema tied to the ends with the hole. This system alows for dyneema change without having to untie the constrictor knots. The second of the two was influenced by Marco Bardi who works with Omer. This has the benefit of the above wishbone but instead of braid we have a bent piece of stainless which can be replaced without any tools.   Dyneema bridles are cheap, easy to make & less painful if they ever do let go. But they don't last on most European shafts & shark fin notches like the Riffe shafts. The notches tend to cut into the Dyneema. Converting a spear for dyneema Here is a good knot for the Dyneema bridle ends.