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How To > Gear
maintenance Rigging Remember, your mono might have a breaking strain of 150 kg
but if you have badly crimped mono, that might be your weakest link. For
my own standard 120 cm gun I use 1.5 mm thick mono, which is not quite
as durable as 1.8 mm & 2 mm, but I think it has less influence on
the shaft when fired. At the shaft end is a copper crimp, which are small
& less likley to catch the muzzle on the way through.. At the muzzle
end is alloy crimp which is a bit bigger for grabbing hold of, for when
it has to be disconnected from the gun. Below is an example of old mono
that's been left too long, the mono has split wide open. This gun has been strung with 2 mm mono,but again this is
not our only choice. Some guns are strung with Dyneema or Spectra. Instead
of crimping , the line passes through the shaft, down the other side with
just a small knot to hold the line in. The trick is having a small enough
knot so it doesn't catch on the muzzle. The first example shows a coastlock & swivel which are very quick to release but do lack a bit of finesse.
This gun has a pigtail & swivel which is probably the most common. Sometimes the winding wire sits hard against the center wire & I would have to say in the middle of winter when the fingers don't work so well I have trouble unwinding the mono.
Here is a gun with the mono strung directly to the muzzel which has it's merits too. When a gun is fired, the shaft drops as is reaches the end of it's range. A shaft strung this way will have less slowing it down as it reaches the end of it's range.
Open & closed muzzle Here we have a typical closed muzzle, which are quick to load, but the muzzle can be a bit distracting when taking aim down the barrel.
Here is an open muzzle gun where the mono actually holds the shaft down in place. No obstructions down the line of the shaft make it easier to site a target. The mono does need tension to hold the shaft in place, and it takes more experience with the gun to load it quickly.
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